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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.